AGAIN AND AGAIN AND 'AGAINN'

Growing up in DC, I have always had a fascination of all things that are "across the pond." Everything from red telephone booths, to tea and scones, to 'bangers & mash' make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. And I remember going to London for the first time and really feeling how "old" the city really is. I know that DC and New York City are pretty old as well, but London - as you know - is pretty ancient. But London (and England as a whole) is a place that knows how to mesh its rich history with the current day, and it's definitely at the top of my list of favorite cities.

One of Britain's best contributions to society would have to be the "public house," or "pub" for short. The British are geniuses for setting up these establishments meant for the consumption of alcoholic beverages. Throw in a little pub grub like salted crisps, pasties, and fish & chips, and you've got one hell of a good time ahead.

In the early 90s, a counter culture in Britain began to stem from the iconic public house concept. As "foodie" culture began to evolve around the world, the British began to take the concept of a fully-operable restaurant placed within a pub. Thus, a renaissance in pub and dining culture in Britain was born, as was the concept of the "gastropub."

The gastropub may not be as gritty as a pub can be known to be, however it is still a place where drinks are enjoyed plentifully. Couple this with carefully prepared food that goes above and beyond "pub fare," and you've got yourself a laid-back, foodie paradise. On our side of the pond, AGAINN proudly serves as a great venue to hang-out, eat, and drink to your heart's contentment.

Pronounced "aguinn" (a-g-uin), this recent addition to Washington, DC's list of trendy restaurants bills itself as a "contemporary British Isles Bistro." Like most of the new food establishments that are popping up around the city, AGAINN prides itself in the sourcing and use of local produce, and meats and seafood that are more or less organic and sustainable.

At the helm of AGAINN is Executive Chef Wes Morton, who spent some time in London prior to the restaurant's opening. There he found inspiration for many of the restaurant's offerings. He also brings a wealth of experience from some of the restaurant world's top spots like Thomas Keller's Yountville, CA mainstay - French Laundry, Michel Richard's DC restaurant maven - Citronelle, and Houston's award-winning *17 restaurant at the Alden Hotel.

Like most of the city's new restaurants, it capitalizes on an industrialized space: stone & wood floors, dark metal accents, and dim lighting. Hardwood table tops line the glass-windowed walls along the side of the restaurant, while booths and banquettes occupy the middle --giving that added touch of comfort that you'd usually find in a classic pub. The bar area is bustling, and the libations are plentiful. Beer on tap, beer in bottles, and top shelf alcohol (along with well selections) are of importance here. Like any restaurant, an extensive wine list is offered, as well as an interesting "Scotch List" which is sure to bring out the Englishman in all of us. At the bar I ordered a Manhattan as I waited for my table, and I can honestly say that the attention to detail that the mixologist gave to my drink perhaps made it the absolute best Manhattan (with Maker's) that I've ever had.

Public House elements: a partial view of one of several dining areas, and the Scotch collection

The food, just as well, was not a disappointment. My friends and I decided to partake in the 'restaurant week' menu that was being offered. Two of us decided to start with the pan-seared diver scallops, which were served on a bed of sunchoke puree & watercorss broth, with parsnip crisps as a garnish. The scallops were cooked perfectly, and were 'melt-in-your-mouth' good. Another friend went with the beetroot salad: a mixture of frisee, walnuts, young goat cheese, and honey dressing; a light and flavorful start to dinner. For the main course, my friends both went with the Tamworth pork belly, which was served with Anson Mill's white grits, smoked tomato jus, and baby mizuna (Japanese mustard leaves). It honestly tasted like it came fresh from my mother's kitchen; the rich flavors of Philippine lechon topped with culinary refinery. I, on the otherhand, decided to go the full length of the Brit experience with the steak & chips --an 8 oz Hereford hanger steak served with bone marrow persillade. I, myself, am a "fry guy." In this instance, the "chips" definitely took a back-seat to the hanger steak, which was full of flavor and tender. To follow, we each ordered our own sticky toffee pudding; a warm bread & toffee pudding glazed with toffee sauce, and served with stout ice cream; a delectable end to an amazing experience.

Delectable tastes: beetroot salad & Tamworth pork belly

AGAINN also offers a raw bar, charcuterie plates, and is open for lunch and Sunday brunch ($5 mimosas!). And a pub, gastro or not, wouldn't be a pub without "pub grub." Scotch eggs, Guinness-soaked pretzels, and ale-battered cod fingers can be enjoyed alongside specialty cocktails like Pimms Cup No. 13 or a Yeoman Afternoon.

Refinery: AGAINN's fully-stocked bar, and decorative accents

Located in the neighborhood of the city's new-ish convention center, and near other foodie spots such as Acadiana and Brasserie Beck, this DC restaurant is sure to have you coming back again... and again. (No pun intended.)
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AGAINN, 1099 New York Avenue (doors on 11th St.) NW, Washington, DC 20001, 202-639-9830

(Photos from the restaurant's website.)

MANGIA, DC!

The Capital City is quickly becoming a veritable "foodie" city. However, one thing about the DC dining landscape is that there aren't any specific pockets of ethnic food enclaves. For instance, in NYC you definitely know where to find a plethora of Chinese restaurants, and even the trailings of a once-abundant Little Italy. Baltimore, too, boasts its own Little Italy, while San Fran is home to a quaint Japantown, China town, and North Beach (Italian). Then there's sprawling Los Angeles, with its many pockets of places specializing in Viet, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, and even Indian cuisine.

DC, on the other hand, is a little more integrated with its food communities. Not that it's a bad thing, but you definitely have to venture outside the city limits in order to find a thriving ethnic food community like Annandale (Korean) or Falls Church/Eden Center (Vietnamese). And while I love that my Asian cousins are representin', I really wish there was an area that is more Italian-centric.

Nonetheless, DC has it's own spattering of Italian dining spots. They range from the chainey, to the hole-in-the-wall, to the "mom & pop's," to the high-brow. Recently, I was able to visit a relative new-comer to the DC-area's Italian dining scene: Potenza.

Conveniently at the corner of H and 15th Streets NW, Potenza sits comfortably on a large corner that is easily accessible to city dwellers, area employees, and visitors alike. As the latest addition to the Stir Food Group family (Zola is also theirs), Potenza is somewhat of a triple threat, serving as a trattoria, a bakery, and a wine bar.

I had the pleasure of dining at Potenza with two of my friends during this past restaurant week. For a Tuesday night, the place was bustling and packed. I presumed that the crowd was a mixture of restaurant week patrons and happy hour celebrants, but wouldn't be surprised if this is the norm for a fairly new-ish addition to the city's dining roster. As the DC palate continues to evolve to amazing levels of sophistication, Potenza fits in like a glove.

While the dining area could potentially seem a bit stuffy, it is pretty vast with a conglomeration of stand alone tables, against-the-wall seating, and large comfy booths. The wait staff is quick, and all casually sport their Italian "soccer" jerseys. When the place is packed, conversation nicely bounces off the walls, but not to the point of annoyance; it adds to the charm, and gives off a lively air.

A view of the bar

The food itself was very good, with dishes ranging from being on-point to being ridiculously excellent. This isn't The Olive Garden, that's for sure. And it's miles away from Maggiano's. Potenza is possibly the epitome of "mangia."

My dinner party enjoyed the following appetizers: Arancini alla Salsiccia di Cinghiale (fried risotto balls stuffed with wild boar sausage and provolone), Frittelle di Baccala (salt cod fritters, parsley aioli), and the Insalata Mista e Antipasti (Romaine, treviso, provolone, salami, roasted peppers, red onions, tomatoes, oil cured olives in a red wine vinaigrette). Together, the three would've easily passed as a full meal encompassing the strong, delicious flavors of the risotto balls, the perfectly seasoned cod, and the smart taste of the salad.

Our main course followed: Mezzelune di Ricotta (half moon pasta stuffed with ricotta, spinach, preserved tomato and fontina sauce), Coda di Rospo con Limone Olio' Oliva (lemon olive oil poached monkfish, pancetta, artichokes, olives), and Cotoletta di Maiale alla Milanese (Milanese style pork, arugula, charred lemon, parmesan and arugula pesto). The pork was nicely cooked as good as a Milanese can get, but was just a tad bit salty. But coupled with the mezzelune pasta, and it was a hit. The monkfish also shined with the infusion of the lemon, pancetta, and olives.

To end the night - we partook in three of their delectable choices of desserts: Bombolini (oven baked Italian doughnuts morello cherry confettura), Chocolate-Hazelnut Semi Freddo (milk chocolate and hazelnut mousse with an espresso sauce), and Tiramisú (Espresso soaked lady fingers layered with marsala whipped mascarpone, chocolate-cinnamon sauce). The Italian doughnuts would've been perfect with a cappuccino, and the tiramisú was pleasantly not-too-sweet. I've had instances where the tiramisú just wouldn't cut it: either too sweet, or not sweet enough. Potenza has the formula down. The clear winner of this round, however, went to the Semi Freddo... the hazelnut mousse being the clear stand-out.

Potenza might come off as a bit high-end, but with reasonable prices, and good food to match, the whole experience turns out to be more comfortable than anything else. And despite the fast-pace of restaurant week, no one seemed to rush us out of there. What we got was a perfectly quaint, and tasteful, dinner... which is really all you can ask for early on in the week. It is definitely worth a visit.
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Potenza, 1430 H St. NW, 1430 H St. NW, (202) 638-4444

(Photos courtesy of the restaurant's website.)

DERNIER ARRÊT: DC RESTAURANT WEEK | JACKSON 20

The third and final stop on my little “DC Restaurant Week Tour” brought me to neighboring Alexandria, VA. The spirit of the old country still haunts the quaint, yet busy settlement of Old Town Alexandria. The brick homes, cobblestoned streets, as well as the historical markers that dot the area have shared their space with a number of America’s popular outposts such as the GAP Outlet, Banana Republic, and Anne Taylor Loft. Other companies, such as California Pizza Kitchen and United Colors of Benetton, once called Old Town “home,” but as the changing tides of the economy ebbs and flows, so do the town’s “residents.”

What was once a Holiday Inn Select on busy King Street has since been changed to Kimpton Hotels’ flagship banner, Hotel Monaco, in recent years. During its incarnation as a Holiday Inn, the space – which was always full of potential – was never really pushed to its limits. But with its re-birth through Kimpton, the locale has stylishly meshed its historical sensibilities with a flair for modernity and chic-ness. And I’m not only talking about the hotel’s gorgeously appointed lobby and guest rooms. Their real gem: Jackson 20.

Since Kimpton bursted onto the hospitality scene focusing on their boutique-style hotels, they have not only mastered the art of design and function as it pertains to hotel rooms and public spaces, but they’ve also made a mark on their respective city’s dining scene. The Serrano Hotel in San Francisco is home to the delectable Ponzu, and The Muse in NYC boasts the casual yet graceful Nios. In similar fashion, the Hotel Monaco presents Jackson 20 – a dining space that blends together the rich traditional atmosphere of Old Town, with the contemporary trappings that Kimpton is known for. The restaurant is named after President Andrew Jackson, who is known to have been the first Commander in Chief to invite the public to attend the Inaugural Ball. Keeping in tradition, the restaurant continues the former president’s renowned hospitality through “inspired American regional cuisine.”

My foodie-friend, Leah, and I decided that we couldn’t pass up another chance to take part in DC’s Restaurant Week this summer, especially after my previous jaunts earlier in the week. But this third and final stop on the "tour" was symbolically special: it was our “last hurrah” so to speak before succumbing to the world of “new car” payments, which we both now have to embrace. That said, we expected nothing but a great time at dinner, and that was exactly what we had.

Upon entering, after passing off my car to the tending valet, we were welcomed by the wafting air filled with everything associated with southern comfort food. Despite the dimmed dining room, with its dark wood furniture and long bar, the first-impression of intimidation from the chic surroundings was easily over-powered by the smells of deep fried chicken, freshly made corn bread, and fall-off-the-bone barbecue ribs. In an instant, we were brought into a world that screams “shabby chic” and “Paula Deen” all in one sentence.

Inside Jackson 20

We were given the option of dining in the courtyard for the full Jackson 20 experience, but with the impending rain, we decided to stay in-doors to be on the safe side. We were seated near the bar, where hotel guests and locals alike enjoyed their drinks at leisure. Our friendly server discussed the menu with us, and came back shortly with our drinks: a Clover Club (with gin, raspberry puree, and citrus) & a Forbidden Fruit (10 Cane Rum shaken with passion fruit and pineapple juices, finished with a 10-year Tawny Port float). The creative libations were just a couple off an interesting list, which includes some classic whiskey drinks made with the restaurant’s own twist.

Our three-course meal pretty much came as smoothly as can be imagined:

Course 1: Virginia Crab Cake with arugula, a fried green tomato, and sauce Gribiche, and Scallop and Beef Brochette –each wrapped in bacon, and served with Anson Mills Grits

Course 2: BBQ Beef Ribs grilled with J20 BBQ sauce, smashed potatoes & a green bean salad, and Beef Brisket –slow-roasted Wagyu beef, crispy marrow potatoes, creamed spinach & horseradish

We also added a side of fries cooked in duck fat. (There’s nothing more that I can say about that.)

Course 3: Banana Pudding & Chocolate Pecan Tart

The encounter was nothing less than scrumptious, and while you could feel the heaviness that is prevalent with southern cuisine, the portions were perfect. Our server made us fully aware that despite the menu catering to “restaurant week” customers, Jackson 20 wanted to be sure to offer the full extent of their menu and portions to all guests; a charming way to start-off the dining experience, if you ask me.

Our first course exuded the flavors that are reminiscent of carefully prepared soul food. The meats of the second course were “melt-in-your-mouth” tender. And the desserts made you think it was Thanksgiving in late August. It was the perfect end to my restaurant week tour, and a nice indication that the dining scene of Old Town is only getting better.

Jackson 20's culinary masterpieces

As the rain poured down with monsoon-like torrents, the sights, the smells, and the flavors of Jackson 20 soothed us to our own lullabies. It was hard to leave without wanting a blanket and a pillow for a quick nap right there at the table. That’s a clear hint that this place will have to be revisited as winter draws close.
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Jackson 20, 480 King Street, Old Town Alexandria, VA 22314, 703.842.2790

(Photos courtesy of the restaurant's website.)

PROCHAIN: DC RESTAURANT WEEK | RISTORANTE TOSCA

The second stop on my 2009 DC Restaurant Week tour brought me to Ristorante Tosca in the city. This time, one of my dear old college friends, Andrea, set-up the “catch up” dinner. It had been years since we last talked. While I was off doing my “L.A. thing,” Andrea was busy with work, grad school, and is now finishing up law school at Catholic. She is definitely one of my more industrious friends! She had just returned from working all summer in Poland, so Restaurant Week came at a perfect time.

Ristorante Tosca, or simply “Tosca,” is one of Dre’s favorites. How this place actually stayed under my radar is beyond me. When I worked in the city some years back, I remembered driving past Tosca many times. While I’ve always wondered about it, I never made any effort to give it a try. So thanks to Restaurant Week, and – more importantly – to Andrea, for finally putting Tosca on “the list.” We were able to get a 9PM reservation, which was one of only a few slots left at Tosca for Restaurant Week (and the reservation was made in late July!). That alone should’ve been enough indication of how dumb I’ve been for missing out all this time.

I made my way into the city later in the evening last Thursday, and met up with Andrea at Foggy Bottom. Coming off I-66 that night, I was reminded of one of the last times I had traversed that very road with Dre –a spring afternoon back in either ’99 or 2000. We were driving in my ’92 Toyota Corolla, a car that took us everywhere within the Metro DC area, to VA Beach, to Florida, countless trips to Philly, Jersey, NYC, and the Eastern Shore. For some lame reason, ‘Casper,’ as I had come to name my white-colored car, decided to die on me just before Dre and I exited off 66. Apparently, it had been years since I gave poor Casper an oil change, and the cost of repairs was NOT something I was looking forward to. Fast forward to the present: that flashback came across my mind as I exited off onto E Street, and I couldn’t help but laugh out loud.

I found a parking spot on one of the side streets, and all of a sudden I felt like I was brought back to my good old college days. Even though I did my undergrad at Maryland, I was always hanging out with my friends at GWU my senior year. There were always meetings, mixers, dinners, and lots and lots of house parties (more appropriately “apartment” parties, but who says that?!). I was amidst the undergrad set, who were making their way home from late classes, or from the busy happy hours that were just ending; a perfect way to transition into the traditional Thursday “college nights” that would be celebrated at many a bar in/around Foggy Bottom, and nearby neighborhoods. Dre came down from her apartment, hopped into her car, and scooped me up, and we were on our way. Restaurant Week reservation #2 was about to begin.

After checking the car in with the valet, we headed inside. Needless to say, the restaurant was bustling. The small bar had been catering to patrons who were waiting patiently for tables, and the sounds from the main dining room were booming: conversation was rampant, servers were busily traveling to and from the kitchen always with their hands full, and parties were leaving just as fast as others arrived. We waited for a while, but were eventually seated in the dining room. The room was warm, not temperature-wise, but the neutral hues of the walls, flooring, table clothes, and artwork were very soothing; not in the sense that you’d want to fall asleep, but more so in the sense that you were instantly comfortable. Our waiter quickly tended to our needs, and soon enough we had drinks brought to us right away.

Per Dre’s suggestion, I decided to follow her lead and order pasta as my starter. She ordered the Pappardelle alla Carota, which was served with a rabbit ragu in a white wine sauce. I opted for the Raviolo di vitello – filled with roasted veal, prosciutto and pistachio mortadella. It was nothing short of delicious, and the portion was perfect.

We dove right in to our main course; Andrea went with the lamb chops, and I decided on the grilled Agnus N.Y. strip. The chops were beautifully displayed, and our waiter gently covered them with sauce. My steak came out perfectly –not at all overdone or overcooked. And the size of it would easily put Ruth’s Chris to shame. I almost had to force myself to finish, but the flavors were perfect enough that I had no issues finishing over our ‘catch-up’ conversation.

By the time the main course was done, I had almost completely forgotten about dessert… and sooner than later we were faced with another mountain to climb: a rich, chocolate mousse-like cake, and the chef’s modern take on the classic tiramisu. Both desserts were pretty staggering, yet we couldn’t even attempt to polish off either one.

The colors of Ristorante Tosca

When the check came, we were done –both mentally and physically. Late dinner was a success, and – as I had mentioned previously – Ristorante Tosca has now been added to my growing list of favorites. It definitely was a simple, yet purpose-filled night: had an awesome dinner, and reconnected with an equally awesome friend.
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Ristorante Tosca, 1112 F Street NW, Washington, DC 20004, 202.367.1990

(Photos courtesy of the restaurant's website.)