STAYING CURRENT

In no way, shape or form am I a sushi snob. Although I must admit that during my stint in L.A., I had some of the best sushi experiences there. And I’m not only talking about the ultra-glam sushi experiences that you’d expect to have at Matsuhisa, Nobu, or even Mori Sushi in West L.A. Even in the most obscure places in the L.A. area you are bound to find a sushi spot that is pretty excellent (Except, of course, Creative Sushi in Santa Monica… Uh, hi. I don’t like my sushi warm, thanks.). I owe the excellent sushi “culture” of L.A. to the fact that they are a coastal city, and the Pacific is the gateway to some of the best fish (…and sharks, and octopus, and moray eels. I’ll save this info for a future post on my biggest fears.).

Since I’ve been back in the DC area, I haven’t had a serious hankering for sushi. I think part of it is that I have never known my city to be a haven for sashimi, nigiri, or maki (rolls). The sushi experience in DC, for me at least, has always been just OK, unless you’ve got a soft spot for rolls that are named after U.S. states or cities. I’ve had some of the best California and Philadelphia rolls ever here in DC, but I would never base a real sushi experience after those. (Cream cheese in a maki roll? Not exactly the 'E True Hollywood Story' according to my Japanese friends – AKA ‘Sushi Police.’)

Case in point: Current. Current is the reincarnation of the once-very-popular Dragonfly. Located on Connecticut Avenue, smack in the center of the Golden Triangle’s bar/club corridor, Current is nestled in a comfortable nook that’s just a stones throw away from the somewhat iconic Julia’s Empanadas and the now-defunct MCCXXII (1223). With new kids on the block like Steve’s Bar Room and the re-furbished Public Bar (formerly Club Five), Current somehow still manages to be … current. While the place still attracts a crowd (an albeit random one), the sushi can only be described as OK at best.

Their menu isn’t super impressive, but it is full of the standards: toro (fatty tuna), sake (Scottish salmon, in this case), aji (mackerel), unagi (eel), and uni (urchin) to name a few. And their maki rolls are also pretty typical: Dragon (eel, avocado, roe, and shrimp tempura), crunchy roll, and soft shell crab. The biggest plus for me is that the rolls are not the Stay-puff Marshmallow Man-sized craziness that you’ll find at your average glamorized “pan-Asian bistro.” Current deals out normal-sized rolls; pieces that are easily consumed without having to attempt to bite them in half. And while the sushi tastes decent, it isn’t really mind-blowing. While it’s definitely better than grocery store or food court sushi, it isn’t the melt-in-your-mouth kind that would make you want to run back for more. Not that I expect all sushi to be done a la Hiroyuki Urasawa, either.

The gleam of light from my experience at Current was definitely the hotate (scallop) kushi (skewer), which easily reminded me of some of the L.A. area’s robata and kushi spots, or izakaya. The scallop was perfectly grilled, and not over-cooked. And it was bursting with flavor.

Current’s décor is interesting, for lack of a better term. However it is miles away better than it was before. As Dragonfly, the soft glow of the interior colored lighting of the lounge would sexily emanate from the frosted main window. Couple that with the ultra-mod (and stark white) tables and chairs, and you had one of DC’s first ventures into the trendy Euro-chic style of the late 90s. But Dragonfly was always so cramped, and the use of the space was poor. With Current comes a much better use of the space, with the elongated bar giving way to a bevy of tables in front of, and to the side of it. Now patrons can comfortably lounge around the space without feeling confined. But while the use of space comes as a much-needed improvement, the décor is not as likable. It is surely a breath of fresh of air from ye ole Dragonfly days. And while the upstairs lounge area is typically lush as any trendy spot can be nowadays, the dining room’s use of aluminum-looking strips across the main and sushi bars (which I imagine to represent electric currents) made me think of tin-foil the whole time I was there.


Given the opportunity to go back with friends for a few rounds of drinks, or to commiserate in the lounge –I’d go again. The service was friendly enough to warrant a return visit, but I could easily skip the food. In the meantime, I'm on the hunt for a better sushi spot in the city.
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Current, 1215 Connecticut Avenue NW, Washington, DC 20036, 202.955.5525

(Photos courtesy of the restaurant's website.)

ONE FISH. TWO FISH. LUCKYFISH.

Innovative Dining Group (Sushi Roku, Katana, Boa Steakhouse, Robata Bar) has brought their flare for all things “sushi” to Beverly Hills. Not that the 90210 needed another sushi spot to compete with the likes of Matsuhisa or Bond St. L.A., but this time IDG decided to go for something completely different: hip, yet casual, kaiten-zushi; which isn't so typical for BH. The BH dining scene is one that thrives on the not-so-quick dining experience. One usually would expect to spend anywhere from an hour or more at a BH restaurant – often times slowly eating and drinking, engaging in all sorts of banter, and – if you could score a table on the sidewalk – people-watch. At Luckyfish, however, you still get all the frills that comes with other BH-ish restaurants – but you (1) wait less, and (2) are usually out of there almost as quickly as you went in.

Luckyfish is located alongside a slew of other eateries and shops in the business district of BH; a hop-skip-and-a-jump away from Rodeo Drive. The kaiten-zushi establishment is a sushi restaurant where patrons will find plates of sushi (and other food items) traveling along on a rotating conveyor belt that winds through the dining area, passing every table and/or counter seat. Luckyfish also offers items that must be ordered through waitstaff, but – for the most part – the draw comes from the dishes that are made available for the taking on the belt. Items are priced according to color-code, and all plates are colored accordingly.

The freshness of the food is ensured through an RFID tag embedded in each plate. The system allows the restaurant’s lead sushi chef to program a unique ID for each dish. The belt then automatically “dismisses” any plate that has been on rotation for longer than an hour.

Don’t expect the flavors of Sushi Roku or Katana at Luckyfish. While they are all sister restaurants, Roku and Katana pride themselves more with ambience and serving overly-priced, yet moderately decent, sushi and other Japanese fare. Luckyfish is much more casual, and you will note this in the food as well. Flavors fall a little short of IDG’s only moderately-flavored tastes (as one will find at their other establishments), but it's workable for that quick meal during your lunch break. Fun “finger” foods such as popcorn shrimp, gyoza, edamame, and chicken kara age are perfect accompaniments to the sushi, sashimi, and cut or hand rolls available. Cut rolls come at four pieces each, and you’ll find all the usual suspects: crunchy spicy tuna, California, toro jalapeno, and soft shell crab to name a few. Sushi/Sashimi favorites include shiro maguro, ama ebi, hamachi and uni. You’ll also find “firecracker rice,” with shrimp or seasonal veggies; yakisoba, salads and miso soup. Beer, sake and wine are also available.

The waitstaff is super-attentive, and the restaurant manager is very friendly and accommodating. The little space attracts a mixed crowd of suits, office groups, hipsters, and shoppers stopping in for a quick bite. It may not be anything to write home about, but it's worth a visit or two. At Luckyfish, the experience of having food via "conveyor belt" in a hip and trendy spot makes for great conversation. With the right company, you'll probably find yourself back again.

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Luckyfish, 338 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210, 310.274.9800

GOTTA GYU...!

This past weekend, I was able to visit an “oldie but goodie” restaurant; one that I hadn’t been to in a long while. Gyu Kaku Japanese BBQ Dining first came into my life back in 2005, when my cousin decided to have her birthday dinner there. Later, the restaurant would be featured in episodes of the first season of The Hills – making it a part of L.A.’s MTVesque dining scene. But before its exposure to American TV via Heidi and Lauren, it was (and still is, as I just realized) one of my favorite places to go and hang out with friends, and to eat/cook yummy-ass Japanese BBQ.

Unlike the “all you can eat” BBQ houses that dot Koreatown (Manna Korean BBQ, Tahoe Galbi), Gyu Kaku does not offer an overflowing supply of meats (at one price) to be grilled and eaten like a food-whore. In that respect, you can go in and not get that feeling like you’re about to embark on a race to eat the most meat out of everyone in your dinner party. It’s quite subdued that way, but just as tasty and flavorful. The menu offers an array of meats (beef cuts, pork loin, chicken) specially marinated in different specialty sauces:

Shio: White soy marinade (hint of garlic and ginger)
Tare: Sweet soy marinade (soy sauce, roasted garlic and fresh juices)
Miso: Soy-based BBQ sauce
Garlic: Chopped and roasted garlic combination
Teriyaki: Sweet and thick soy-based marinade
Basil Pesto: Special pesto sauce made especially for chicken

Likewise, there are special dipping sauces:

Sweet & Spicy: Garlic, Chinese chili, fruit juice; best with steamed rice, miso & tare marinades & seafood
Tsuke: Traditional fruit soy based dipping sauce; best with kalbi short rib with tare sweet soy
Ponzu: Japanese citrus soy sauce; best with salt & pepper items, vegetables & seafood

Each table at a Gyu Kaku has a charcoal brazier in the middle (in U.S. restaurants, at least). Menu items vary from soups, salads, Japanese restaurant staples (edamame, tofu, miso soup), and a few Korean-influenced items such as kalbi short ribs and bibimba (bibimbap). The grills are pre-heated once you’re seated, and soon after the cooking and eating-fest begins. Being that you control how long items are grilled, you have your choice of meats cooked anywhere from rare to well done. Fish fillets (miso butterfish is amazing) and seasoned veggies come wrapped in foil, which are placed on top of the grill. Freshly cut vegetables, meats, and tofu are placed directly on the grill; cooked to your preference. Dip your meats and veggies in any of the sauces, and you’re in for fun times.

Their drink menu features a decent selection of wines (red and white), Japanese plum wines, sake, beer (bottled and tap), and sochu cocktails. Happy Hour occurs twice a day Mondays and Fridays –-usually after the work crowd lets out, and again an hour before closing time.

The vibe of the restaurant is a fusion of Eastern and Western influences – gorgeous wood-based walls and furnishings are cast aglow by dim lights and table candles, random pieces of traditional and modern-esque Japanese art are spread across the room, and the sound of group chatter meshes with the pulsating tunes of 80s hits (at least when we were there last). All of this makes for an intimate, and un-pretentious, dining experience.

It had been a while since I’d popped my head into the West L.A. location, but it all came back to me as soon as I sat down. My friend, whose birthday we were celebrating, had a good time as well. And we went home not overly stuffed, but perfectly pleased (and full).
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Photos courtesy of Flickr member, jeremy!. Thank you!

YUM SOO-SHEE

Last Wednesday, The Mobley (the in-house cafeteria at work) had their bi-weekly menu of sushi available for lunch. I usually never get their sushi, even though they've contracted some real-deal sushi company to come in and pre-make the rolls prior to the big lunch rush. Every other Wednesday people line-up for a dose of the not-so-spectacular maki rolls. Those who are more daring go for the side of seaweed salad, too. For some strange reason, I decided that I would get sushi there for the first time ever. Needless to say, it will be my last.

I honestly see no difference between the sushi served at work, and the sushi that's pre-packed at the grocery store. Granted, Bristol Farms serves up amazing pre-packed sushi for a grocery store, but they are the sole exception. I got a combo spicy tuna/salmon roll from The Mobez, and I (1) inhaled it in like 2 minutes, and (2) was not even close to satisfied.

After work, Jess and I decided to walk across the street to the Bev Hills library to study for the CPSM exam. We sat there dutifully studying for over an hour and a half, and the whole time you could hear my stomach growling and turning and doing all sorts of not-so-cool things. When we were done, we had to eat. We stopped at Sushi & Kushi Imai on Wilshire, right on the border of Bev Hills and mid-Wilshire. I've driven by this spot so many times before, but never been. Jess had been once and said that their happy hour was great. We missed happy hour, but were starving anyway so we went. Needless to say, it was great... Jess ordered this "crunch & crunch" thing which was basically a shrimp tempura roll nicely arranged with wonton bits and tempura shavings all over. It looked like a big sushi cake or something. To compliment that, she ordered a stuffed avocado with mushrooms and something else... scallops maybe? Looked amazing. I got a spicy tuna salad --spicy tuna on a bed of mixed greens with fresh slices of avocado on top. I also ordered a baked crab roll, which was OK. It was nothing remotely close to Kabuki's BSR (or something like that) or Roku's baked crab roll, which is still one of the best (if not the best) that I've had. All in all, the experience was good. I would definitely go again, especially for happy hour.

The service lagged a little though, but it was definitely busier than I had expected. It was dimly lit; pretty standard stuff much like the other Japanese places I've been to out here. But it was cozy, not cold like the new Sasabune. Since it was packed, it was a little loud, but not overly so. The sushi bar looked somewhat chic, and it gave balance to the rest of the area -- basically a v-shaped open space filled with tables. Definitely a keeper.

Incidentally, during lunch yesterday Jess and Justin stopped through the new spot made by the Sushi Roku gang of restaurants -- Luckyfish -- here in Bev Hills. It's one of those kaiten places --"conveyor belt" sushi. Not exactly my bag, but I'll try it since it's by the Roku gang. I'll let you know how it goes. Looks like we won't have a sushi shortage ever. Then again, this is L.A.

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Totally unrelated to sushi... but I feel like this is worth of mentioning; at least for my fellow Filos. Those of us who grew up in the 80s are more than familiar with Philippine stars Sharon Cuneta and Gabby Concepcion. They were a totally cheesy love-team that, for purposes not completely known to me, ended up getting married in real life. (The world of Philippine cinema is known for doing this ---which is absolutely dumb, I think.) So they had a story-book wedding; a ceremony and reception that royal weddings are made of. And then, as they usually do, they got divorced. Sharon went on to be one of the country's best stars, while Gabby had his share of fame before going on to father two more kids with two other women. (Not judging here...!) Now he's supposedly here in the States.

Anyway. Sharon and Gabby had a daughter, Maria Kristina Cassandra (sp?) - more popularly known as KC. She was the chubby little girl that pretty much grew up in the shadow of her mom. She wasn't absolutely pretty, but not at all unfortunate either. She wasn't super into showbiz, too. Some children of actors in The Phils totally get immersed in showbiz the minute they can walk and talk. But not so much KC, even though she did dabble with theater. Eventually, the little girl grew up... went to Paris for school... watched as her mom gave birth to her younger sisters... and eventually came to reconcile with her once-estranged father. Needless to say, the little duckling (not 'ugly' duckling, 'cause she honestly was never ugly to me) has blossomed into a swan.

Uh... this is her now:

Wow, right? She's gorgeous! She may be a spittin' image of her dad, but as a female she carries the look well. Ahahaha. I'm pretty impressed, and actually can't wait to see how far this one goes in Philppine showbiz. She's got an international look that may work in Hollywood. But is the talent there? Abangan ang susunod na...kabanata!