AGAIN AND AGAIN AND 'AGAINN'

Growing up in DC, I have always had a fascination of all things that are "across the pond." Everything from red telephone booths, to tea and scones, to 'bangers & mash' make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. And I remember going to London for the first time and really feeling how "old" the city really is. I know that DC and New York City are pretty old as well, but London - as you know - is pretty ancient. But London (and England as a whole) is a place that knows how to mesh its rich history with the current day, and it's definitely at the top of my list of favorite cities.

One of Britain's best contributions to society would have to be the "public house," or "pub" for short. The British are geniuses for setting up these establishments meant for the consumption of alcoholic beverages. Throw in a little pub grub like salted crisps, pasties, and fish & chips, and you've got one hell of a good time ahead.

In the early 90s, a counter culture in Britain began to stem from the iconic public house concept. As "foodie" culture began to evolve around the world, the British began to take the concept of a fully-operable restaurant placed within a pub. Thus, a renaissance in pub and dining culture in Britain was born, as was the concept of the "gastropub."

The gastropub may not be as gritty as a pub can be known to be, however it is still a place where drinks are enjoyed plentifully. Couple this with carefully prepared food that goes above and beyond "pub fare," and you've got yourself a laid-back, foodie paradise. On our side of the pond, AGAINN proudly serves as a great venue to hang-out, eat, and drink to your heart's contentment.

Pronounced "aguinn" (a-g-uin), this recent addition to Washington, DC's list of trendy restaurants bills itself as a "contemporary British Isles Bistro." Like most of the new food establishments that are popping up around the city, AGAINN prides itself in the sourcing and use of local produce, and meats and seafood that are more or less organic and sustainable.

At the helm of AGAINN is Executive Chef Wes Morton, who spent some time in London prior to the restaurant's opening. There he found inspiration for many of the restaurant's offerings. He also brings a wealth of experience from some of the restaurant world's top spots like Thomas Keller's Yountville, CA mainstay - French Laundry, Michel Richard's DC restaurant maven - Citronelle, and Houston's award-winning *17 restaurant at the Alden Hotel.

Like most of the city's new restaurants, it capitalizes on an industrialized space: stone & wood floors, dark metal accents, and dim lighting. Hardwood table tops line the glass-windowed walls along the side of the restaurant, while booths and banquettes occupy the middle --giving that added touch of comfort that you'd usually find in a classic pub. The bar area is bustling, and the libations are plentiful. Beer on tap, beer in bottles, and top shelf alcohol (along with well selections) are of importance here. Like any restaurant, an extensive wine list is offered, as well as an interesting "Scotch List" which is sure to bring out the Englishman in all of us. At the bar I ordered a Manhattan as I waited for my table, and I can honestly say that the attention to detail that the mixologist gave to my drink perhaps made it the absolute best Manhattan (with Maker's) that I've ever had.

Public House elements: a partial view of one of several dining areas, and the Scotch collection

The food, just as well, was not a disappointment. My friends and I decided to partake in the 'restaurant week' menu that was being offered. Two of us decided to start with the pan-seared diver scallops, which were served on a bed of sunchoke puree & watercorss broth, with parsnip crisps as a garnish. The scallops were cooked perfectly, and were 'melt-in-your-mouth' good. Another friend went with the beetroot salad: a mixture of frisee, walnuts, young goat cheese, and honey dressing; a light and flavorful start to dinner. For the main course, my friends both went with the Tamworth pork belly, which was served with Anson Mill's white grits, smoked tomato jus, and baby mizuna (Japanese mustard leaves). It honestly tasted like it came fresh from my mother's kitchen; the rich flavors of Philippine lechon topped with culinary refinery. I, on the otherhand, decided to go the full length of the Brit experience with the steak & chips --an 8 oz Hereford hanger steak served with bone marrow persillade. I, myself, am a "fry guy." In this instance, the "chips" definitely took a back-seat to the hanger steak, which was full of flavor and tender. To follow, we each ordered our own sticky toffee pudding; a warm bread & toffee pudding glazed with toffee sauce, and served with stout ice cream; a delectable end to an amazing experience.

Delectable tastes: beetroot salad & Tamworth pork belly

AGAINN also offers a raw bar, charcuterie plates, and is open for lunch and Sunday brunch ($5 mimosas!). And a pub, gastro or not, wouldn't be a pub without "pub grub." Scotch eggs, Guinness-soaked pretzels, and ale-battered cod fingers can be enjoyed alongside specialty cocktails like Pimms Cup No. 13 or a Yeoman Afternoon.

Refinery: AGAINN's fully-stocked bar, and decorative accents

Located in the neighborhood of the city's new-ish convention center, and near other foodie spots such as Acadiana and Brasserie Beck, this DC restaurant is sure to have you coming back again... and again. (No pun intended.)
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AGAINN, 1099 New York Avenue (doors on 11th St.) NW, Washington, DC 20001, 202-639-9830

(Photos from the restaurant's website.)

MOVE OVER FLANK STEAK, PORK BELLY HAS ARRIVED

If “30s” is the new “20s,” then “pork belly” has got to be the hot, new thing in the foodie world (at least). Sure -- pork belly has been around for as long as men have been eating swine. It’s a staple in my native Philippine cuisine, as it is in other Asian and Latin fare. And popular “bad yet yum” food items, such as bacon and pancetta, are usually made from pork bellies. In essence, however, it seems that in recent years pork belly has become a popular part of the Western world’s high-end dining culture.

One of DC’s newest additions to the restaurant landscape, Masa 14, embraces the pork belly like no other. Two of the most sensuous dishes in their tapas-style line-up features pork belly as the star ingredient: Pork Belly Al Pastor Tacos (melt-in-your-mouth pork belly with pineapple preserve, red Fresno, lime, cilantro & pickled onion served on a steamed bun) & Pork Belly Carnitas (smooth-as-butter pork belly with kabocha squash, adobo bbq sauce, and blood orange). The tacos brilliantly illustrates Masa 14’s Latin/Asian fusion, meshing together the flavors of the two regional cuisines and serving it not in a corn or flour tortilla, but on a steamed bun. (Filipinos, think “siopao-esque” flat bread in lieu of the usual tortilla.) The soft, fluffy, and somewhat doughy texture of the bun envelopes the pork belly, absorbing its juices (and fat, I’m sure) in a way that makes the dish even more delicate than its arrival to the table. And carnitas will do as only carnitas can do, but pork belly carnitas out-does them all. The blood orange adds a zing in contrast to the adobo flavor’s zang, offering the dish “superstar” status.

Pork Belly Al Pastor Taco

The pork belly actually doesn’t hog (no pun intended) the limelight, however, and Masa 14’s surplus of flavors transcends an illustrious list of culinary dignitaries: crunchy shrimp & barbecued eel temaki hand rolls, tuna ceviche & Hijiki seaweed-jicama salad, Thai chicken flatbread, grilled baby octopus, fried oysters served in bibb lettuce cups, Kobe beef brisket, yucca fries (served with chimichurri and garlic/lime aioli), and shrimp and pork fried rice just to name a few.

Crispy Shrimp

If you’re looking for a meal that will fill you up, be warned. Masa 14 specializes in tapas-style dishes, so it’s best to know that before entering. The new dining space is the project of Chef Richard Sandoval, who is credited with “marrying” Latin and Asian cuisines by way of Zengo (in Chinatown), and Chef Kazuhiro “Kaz” Okochi, of Kaz Sushi Bistro fame. Their dining area evokes a sense of urban chic with wood-planked floors, brick walls, and reddish and brownish hues emphasized with metallic accents. The open space, which boasts a 65-foot long bar along one of its sides, gives off a vibe that rivals any power-restaurant in the city. However, the space isn’t packed with stuffy suits and made-for-the-office stilettos. Instead, you’ll find hip, trendy, yet very casual diners in for both food and scene. The restaurant is loud, but not to the point of obnoxiousness. And for a more private experience, a separate dining room can accommodate up to 18 guests.

Masa 14's bustling dining room

View of Masa 14 from 14th Street NW

For the late night set, Masa 14 is a perfect addition to the 14th & U Street corridor. With other spots like Marvin, Bar Pilar, and Sainte Ex just a walk away, Masa 14’s bar area will surely become a destination for Friday and Saturday night loungers. Couple that scene with their late-night bar menu of tapas and creative drink concoctions, draught beers, wine, sake, and tequila… and ultimately, you have a winner.

Pork belly fans, welcome home.



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Masa 14, 1825 14th Street NW, Washington, DC 20009, 202.328.1414

(Photos courtesy of the restaurant's website.)

DERNIER ARRÊT: DC RESTAURANT WEEK | JACKSON 20

The third and final stop on my little “DC Restaurant Week Tour” brought me to neighboring Alexandria, VA. The spirit of the old country still haunts the quaint, yet busy settlement of Old Town Alexandria. The brick homes, cobblestoned streets, as well as the historical markers that dot the area have shared their space with a number of America’s popular outposts such as the GAP Outlet, Banana Republic, and Anne Taylor Loft. Other companies, such as California Pizza Kitchen and United Colors of Benetton, once called Old Town “home,” but as the changing tides of the economy ebbs and flows, so do the town’s “residents.”

What was once a Holiday Inn Select on busy King Street has since been changed to Kimpton Hotels’ flagship banner, Hotel Monaco, in recent years. During its incarnation as a Holiday Inn, the space – which was always full of potential – was never really pushed to its limits. But with its re-birth through Kimpton, the locale has stylishly meshed its historical sensibilities with a flair for modernity and chic-ness. And I’m not only talking about the hotel’s gorgeously appointed lobby and guest rooms. Their real gem: Jackson 20.

Since Kimpton bursted onto the hospitality scene focusing on their boutique-style hotels, they have not only mastered the art of design and function as it pertains to hotel rooms and public spaces, but they’ve also made a mark on their respective city’s dining scene. The Serrano Hotel in San Francisco is home to the delectable Ponzu, and The Muse in NYC boasts the casual yet graceful Nios. In similar fashion, the Hotel Monaco presents Jackson 20 – a dining space that blends together the rich traditional atmosphere of Old Town, with the contemporary trappings that Kimpton is known for. The restaurant is named after President Andrew Jackson, who is known to have been the first Commander in Chief to invite the public to attend the Inaugural Ball. Keeping in tradition, the restaurant continues the former president’s renowned hospitality through “inspired American regional cuisine.”

My foodie-friend, Leah, and I decided that we couldn’t pass up another chance to take part in DC’s Restaurant Week this summer, especially after my previous jaunts earlier in the week. But this third and final stop on the "tour" was symbolically special: it was our “last hurrah” so to speak before succumbing to the world of “new car” payments, which we both now have to embrace. That said, we expected nothing but a great time at dinner, and that was exactly what we had.

Upon entering, after passing off my car to the tending valet, we were welcomed by the wafting air filled with everything associated with southern comfort food. Despite the dimmed dining room, with its dark wood furniture and long bar, the first-impression of intimidation from the chic surroundings was easily over-powered by the smells of deep fried chicken, freshly made corn bread, and fall-off-the-bone barbecue ribs. In an instant, we were brought into a world that screams “shabby chic” and “Paula Deen” all in one sentence.

Inside Jackson 20

We were given the option of dining in the courtyard for the full Jackson 20 experience, but with the impending rain, we decided to stay in-doors to be on the safe side. We were seated near the bar, where hotel guests and locals alike enjoyed their drinks at leisure. Our friendly server discussed the menu with us, and came back shortly with our drinks: a Clover Club (with gin, raspberry puree, and citrus) & a Forbidden Fruit (10 Cane Rum shaken with passion fruit and pineapple juices, finished with a 10-year Tawny Port float). The creative libations were just a couple off an interesting list, which includes some classic whiskey drinks made with the restaurant’s own twist.

Our three-course meal pretty much came as smoothly as can be imagined:

Course 1: Virginia Crab Cake with arugula, a fried green tomato, and sauce Gribiche, and Scallop and Beef Brochette –each wrapped in bacon, and served with Anson Mills Grits

Course 2: BBQ Beef Ribs grilled with J20 BBQ sauce, smashed potatoes & a green bean salad, and Beef Brisket –slow-roasted Wagyu beef, crispy marrow potatoes, creamed spinach & horseradish

We also added a side of fries cooked in duck fat. (There’s nothing more that I can say about that.)

Course 3: Banana Pudding & Chocolate Pecan Tart

The encounter was nothing less than scrumptious, and while you could feel the heaviness that is prevalent with southern cuisine, the portions were perfect. Our server made us fully aware that despite the menu catering to “restaurant week” customers, Jackson 20 wanted to be sure to offer the full extent of their menu and portions to all guests; a charming way to start-off the dining experience, if you ask me.

Our first course exuded the flavors that are reminiscent of carefully prepared soul food. The meats of the second course were “melt-in-your-mouth” tender. And the desserts made you think it was Thanksgiving in late August. It was the perfect end to my restaurant week tour, and a nice indication that the dining scene of Old Town is only getting better.

Jackson 20's culinary masterpieces

As the rain poured down with monsoon-like torrents, the sights, the smells, and the flavors of Jackson 20 soothed us to our own lullabies. It was hard to leave without wanting a blanket and a pillow for a quick nap right there at the table. That’s a clear hint that this place will have to be revisited as winter draws close.
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Jackson 20, 480 King Street, Old Town Alexandria, VA 22314, 703.842.2790

(Photos courtesy of the restaurant's website.)

HIDDEN AWAY...

I finally got to check out Hidden Restaurant & Garden Lounge in Santa Monica. Located in the old Schatzi's On Main space along Main St. (cross street: Marine), If there's anything to be said about the place, it is definitely the antithesis to Schatzi's. While Schatzi's was a perfect example of a neighborhood watering-hole (with a super great happy hour, by the way), its casual atmosphere has given way to a swankier, uber-chic dwelling place. Schatzi's open-air, elevated lounge area is still in place. But it's newest incarnation is as Hidden's "garden" lounge.

I checked-out Hidden with a friend, and we actually stumbled in on accident since the bar area at Chaya Venice was packed. For happy hour on a Saturday night, it was pretty dead; Chaya Venice,on the other hand, was bustling. But the ambiance was nice enough for us to hang out and check things out. The place is huge with dining and lounge areas that can go on for days. It seems like it would be a great place to host a beach-side, swanky party. We sat at the bar, and pretty much had it to ourselves for the first half hour or so. We drank vodka-sodas at the special happy hour price of $7. Not so special, actually. We also had a few appz, starting with the kobe beef tacos and pan-sauteed calamari. The calamari was sauteed with strips of pancetta, which added a nice saltiness to the dish. The beef tacos were yummy two-biters. We were obviously hungry... still. We ended up ordering ahi tuna spring rolls, and a vegetarian pizza (tomatoes, onions, eggplant and roasted red pepper).

The prices were a little high, even for happy hour. But with a continuous flow of drinks, the experience was quite bearable. I'd like to see how the place gets on a busier night. I've read reviews that glossed over the ambiance and "laid back" vibe of the scene-worthy spot, but I've also heard that the place missed the mark in service. The bar service that evening was spotless, but then again, we were two of maybe five or six people seated there.

We'll see what the future holds. I actually feel like the place could go under if it remains as quiet as it was that night, but we'll see how things work out as the warmer weather comes through. It is a nice addition to that area sitting on the cusp of Venice and Santa Monica.
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Hidden Restaurant & Garden Lounge, 3110 Main Street, Santa Monica, CA 90405, 310-399-4800

OH, BOURBON ME

As I've stated in an earlier post, I am caught in the middle of a winter slump. I have no holiday cheer running through my blood. I scoff at the sound of Christmas carols (ok, I'll sing along for a chorus or two, then I'm over it). I haven't even given Christmas cards a second look at the store. I will not be putting up any decorations. And I've been showering myself with "Merry-Christmas-to-me" presents rather than putting others first.

But it's not like I'm being all Jack Frost about it, but I'm not being psycho Scrooge either. I'd call myself "Scroogey" or "Scrooge-ish" more than anything. I mean "yay" for Christmas trees and ice skating in Santa Monica even when it's like 70-degrees outside. Whoopee. Even the Charlie Brown Christmas cartoon didn't reel me in this evening. Last year I almost killed myself for missing it on TV.

I don't know what I have to do to find the spirit within. I'm just spirit-less.

Maybe it's the whole "delayed weather" thing that's going on here. Right now it feels like I'm going through a surge of East coast fall weather, but I know I should be freezing my ass off. I think I am mentally trying to grapple with what I should be feeling weatherwise, and this year it's taking me a lot longer to process everything. Poor excuse, I know. But whatever.

I am flying back East next week to spend about 10 days with the fam-bam for the holidays. I'm hoping that being in "real" cold, and being around extra-familiar faces, will conjure up some kind of awakening. I'm especially excited to see the kids. I can't wait to hang out with Lexi, and carry the little fat-ball that is Noah.

In the meantime, I think I'm in need of making seasonal changes in my drink choices. Even though I love vodka and most clear libations, I think I need to switch to something more "winter." Does this mean I'm searching for a return to whiskey? I did love Makers Mark for a while. I may have to pass on the vodka sodas, and go for the Manhattans.

MANHATTAN (on the rocks)
3 oz Rye or Bourbon
3/4 oz Vermouth
dash of bitters
maraschino cherry for garnish

Cheers to me finding holiday spirit.