Monday, June 16, 2008

INNER RICHMOND GLEAM: B STAR BAR

As long as I have been traveling to and from L.A. to San Fran, my Godsis and her hubby had been wanting me to try one of their favorite Burmese restaurants in the city. But for some reason or another, we would never find the time. We always had something else to do, or ended up changing plans for whatever reason. I’d wanted to check out their picks, especially since I’ve only had Burmese food one other time back in DC.

Back-track: Burma Restaurant in DC’s Chinatown is a little hole-in-the-wall space with good food. At the time that I was there, however, I felt that it was a little too “Chinesey” for my liking. Maybe it’s because I didn’t really know what to expect at the time.

Fast-forward: When I was in The Bay a couple of weekends ago, we finally made plans to go to Burma Super Star in San Francisco. However, it was closed for renovations. Luckily, however, their sister restaurant – B Star Bar – was open for business. We called in a reservation, and were on our way to the Inner Richmond. The Inner Richmond is an interesting area, and Clement is filled with a potpourri of culturally-based businesses – mainly Asian. At first glance, I thought it was basically on off-shoot of San Fran’s ever-popular Chinatown (one of the best in the nation, in my opinion). But after looking closer I realized that there is actually a mélange of Asian businesses reflecting Chinese, Korean, Indonesian, Vietnamese, and even Japanese ethnicities. We drove past Burma Super Star, and I was disappointed that it was closed for the day. But that feeling was about to change.

We drove a couple of blocks from Super Star, and scored parking right in front of B Star Bar (that, in itself, was a good sign). There were already people waiting in the doorway of the little spot (I was told that this was a normal occurrence at Burma Super Star). People were waiting for tables at the already filled spot. Luckily, since we called ahead, we were whisked inside, and quickly lead to our table amidst all of the chatter and clanging of silverware and glasses. The place didn’t seem spacious at all, but that was probably because it was pretty much filled to capacity. But the turnover of customers was quick, and people were seated promptly. The first thing I noticed was the ambience and décor of the space. I didn’t think “Asian” the instant I walked in. I actually felt like I was in an old, classic Nantucket café…with wood plank floors, and wood plank furniture pieces to match. There were some lighting fixtures hanging from the ceiling that gave off a vintagey-modern vibe, which softened the dining area a bit. I honestly felt like I was about to skim through a menu of lobster tail, seared sea scallops, and rock fish fillets. If it weren’t for a few Asian-inspired art pieces scattered cleverly around the restaurant (and the green and black melamine chopsticks at each table), I would’ve never guessed it to be an Asian restaurant. Instead, it gave off an impression that the atmosphere was more Asian-“dipped” than actually Asian-inspired… which was fine.

Once seated, we were given menus. I was not at all prepared for what was to come. While I was expecting traditional Burmese fare such as NanJee Thoke (curried noodles) or AMeThar ASane Gyaw (beef and veggies in a brown sauce), I was instead turned to a bistro-esque fusion menu. I’m a fan of fusion cuisine as long as it is done right. As I skimmed the menu, I got a feeling (from the food descriptions) that everything would work out nicely.

I told Lenore, Allan and Tes to run amuck with the menu, and just order for me (since I was the neophyte), but that idea was nixed after we “ooohed” and “aaahhhed” at different menu items for a good two minutes. For starters, Len went with a classic from Burma Super Star: the Tea Leaf Salad. Spur-of-the-moment-ly, I decided to put in an order of Spicy Tuna (a pepper crusted tuna tataki). Following suit, Tes ordered a side of Szechuan Salt and Pepper Fries (perhaps to satisfy the fry-monster that I am), and Allan ordered baguette slices with Edamame Hummus. A lot of food, yeah?! We were a hungry bunch. When it came time to order our main courses, we decided to go with three main dishes, and split them between the four of us. We decided on the Kau Soi (a coconut chicken noodle dish), Beer Fed Pork and White Beans (braised pork belly), and Chicken Biryani – a nod to the famous Indian dish. As quickly as our order was placed, another server brought me a glass of red wine, and the ride was about to move along quickly…

The fries came out first, and was an instant fun time. The Kennebec shoestring potatoes were nicely tossed in “Szechuan” salt and pepper, and came with a garlic aioli dipping sauce. On the spot yum.



The tea leaf salad came next, and was easily one of the best parts of the meal. I had never tasted a “tea leaf” salad before, so I wasn’t sure what to expect. The dish was made with romaine lettuce, and was nicely showered with ginger, garlic, peanuts, sunflower and sesame seeds, chopped tomatoes, and a tea leave paste that – when all mixed together – brought a fusion of sweet and salty that was both refreshing and flavorful. It easily had become one of my favorite salads ever created, and I can’t wait to have it again.

The spicy tuna tataki came next; each piece nicely garnished with a sliver of jalapeno. I’ve never had tuna tataki that fell short of quality, and this was certainly no different.

The yum-factor continued with the baguette crisps. Edamame hummus is most definitely interesting and delicious.

When the appetizers were done (we cleaned off each dish like hostages), we quickly prepped the small table for what was to come by piling the dishes together. Servers swooped by and took our finished tableware, and the next wave of flavors instantaneously began to flow.

The pork belly came first, and it was melt-in-your-mouth good. The meat was tenderly cooked, and was served over a bed of jasmine rice, white beans, and bok choy. It reminded me of the flavors of the ill-fated Yi Cuisine’s crispy pata dish, but with the delicate texture of slow-cooked Filipino adobo. It definitely was everyone’s favorite dish.


The Kau Soi and the biryani came out soon after. The coconut curry sauce of the Kau Soi added a nice change of pace after the pork dish, and the bean sprouts and pickled mustard greens gave it a distinctly Asian flavor. The crispy wontons and bean sprouts added a nice crunch, giving the dish some texture.


And finally, the “baked” biryani was just as good as biryani gets – but not at all overpowering with flavors. The texture and flavor were nicely balanced.

Needless to say, we were stuffed. We had dessert plans elsewhere, so we didn’t even entertain the thought. Although their menu boasts a comforting Warm Chocolate Cake, a Black Rice Pudding (which made me think of champorado for some strange reason), and a Vietnamese-style Afogato – espresso drip coffee poured over coconut ice cream, topped with fresh berries and toasted almonds. I’m sure any of these would’ve been a nice way to end the dinner experience, but we had another agenda.

To sum it up, B Star Bar was definitely a nice surprise. Although I had expected the real-deal, down-and-dirty and authentic tastes of Burmese cuisine, I was instead bowled over by a graceful fusion of traditional flavors and modern flair. I wouldn’t exactly call it a place to run to for comfort food, and if you’re looking for super-large dishes to last you all evening (and well into the next), then this place is not for you. For foodie enthusiasts, however, the menu is chock-full of personality and clever wit. It’s perfect for great tastes, awesome conversation, and an overall groovy time.

2 comments:

Crystal said...

omigod...i've never had burmese food in my life but this. looks. AMAZING. is there an LA equivalent?! i really want to try the edamame hummus. they need to sell that at trader joes, stat!

Anonymous said...

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