ROCKSUGAR, ROCK MY WORLD (OR NOT)

A re-post of my recent Yelp review of RockSugar Pan Asian Kitchen:

As an Asian American, at first glance I already knew that RockSugar would be a glorified version of PF Chang's or Big Bowl. I, personally, am not an avid fan of over-Americanized Asian cuisine served in overly-chic settings, but I'll find myself dining/drinking at these places if and when someone else actually wants to (or if it's my first time trying the place out of curiosity).

Honestly, restaurant interiors with mood lighting, clean lines, modern furniture, and pseudo-vintage images of Buddha scattered all around does not make the cuisine "high end." In fact, it often times turns original Asian culinary masterpieces into watered-down dishes that are either too sweet or too salty. But what's to be expected from the sister restaurant of The Cheesecake Factory and Grand Luxe Cafe?! Obviously, not so much.

I decided to give RockSugar a try when a friend was visiting from out-of-town. On a whim, she asked if I was free for dinner one night, and I thought it would be a good opportunity to give this place a chance... at least I had good conversation and company to look forward to in case the food sucked.

Upon entering, I almost got the feel that I was walking into something so stylish as say STK. But that was only because I was momentarily taken aback by the outrageously high ceilings, and uber-dimmed "waiting room" where I met my friend. We were seated soon after I arrived, and we were taken through the bar/lounge area, which is right behind the host stand. It was packed, and abuzz with chatter. We then walked through the main dining room, and I was (again) taken by the high ceilings. I almost felt like I was walking through an NYC supper club. We were finally ushered to the back dining area, which is somewhat of an "outdoor" terrace over-looking Santa Monica Boulevard; not the best of views, but the waterfall-wall that we were seated next to was both calming and visually stimulating. So far so good.

For dinner, we kept it simple by starting with an order of the Indian Stuffed Flatbread -- which was flavorful in a way that American tastes would surely appreciate. This is most similar to Murtabak, which is an Indian-style "pancake" filled with ground beef, onions and a curry sauce; very popular in Malaysian restaurants back East. While RockSugar's version worked, it still doesn't hold a candle to some of the versions that I've tasted at more-authentic places. ON THE FENCE.

For our vegetable dish, we had the Nyonya Sambal Eggplant -- which was pretty standard. The eggplant was nicely cooked in sweet soy and chilies (sambal sauce). Honestly, the only thing that could've gone wrong with this dish would've been over-cooking the eggplant. Thankfully it wasn't. PLUS.

For our main dish, we had the Singapore Hainan Pork -- pieces of pork cutlet simmered in a spicy chili sauce with sweet onions and peas. Thankfully, the pork was tender and flavorful, although I couldn't help but compare it to my mom's version of apritada --- except with pork and chili sauce (it must've been the peas throwing me off). Again, it was obvious that this dish catered to a more general palate. ON THE FENCE.

The menu is full of items -- each with origins stemming back to India, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam, and Thailand (South & Southeast Asia). I also noticed, by looking at the menu, the use of calamansi - a citrus fruit popular all over Southeast Asia, but most especially in The Philippines - in some of the bar's specialty drinks. The extensive food list can be quite intimidating (but aren't the menus at The Cheesecake Factory and Grand Lux Cafe equally so?), so unless you really know what you're looking for in terms of taste, you could be reading through its pages for a while. I just wish the cuisine also showcased some dishes from Burma (Myanmar), The Philippines, and/or Cambodia.

When I left, any sense of "grandeur" that was swirling in my head about RockSugar was no longer apparent. What was alluring and somewhat exciting as I entered, simply became vapid and dank as I left. Will I ever go back? If someone wanted to try it again, sure. Why not. Like I said - there are tons of other dishes I could try.

One thing's for sure, though... this place isn't on the top of my list. And I hope that patrons don't leave RockSugar believing that this is what "real" Southeast Asian cuisine is all about. If you're up for an evening of gussied-up Asian tastes, then this place (and PF Chang's, Big Bowl, etc.) is just for you.
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RockSugar Pan Asian Kitchen, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90067, 310-552-9988

(Photos from yelp.com)