BYE-BYE, BENNIGAN'S...

It's a sad time in restaurant chain land. S&A Restaurants Corporation have decided to close down all Bennigan's and Steak & Ale restaurants across the country. This sudden move has sent many an employee showing up for work, only to find out that the doors have been closed... for good. S&A, along with some of their affiliates, filed for bankruptcy under the Chapter 7 code, prompting the closures of the two chains. Franchisees of the brands, however, will remain open, as will S&A's other brands, Ponderosa and Bonanza steak houses.

There weren't many Bennigan's restaurants in California to begin with, so the loss isn't much of a stinger. My research shows only two locations: Santa Clara and San Diego, which were - more than likely - corporate locations that have been affected by the bankruptcy case (Please correct me if I'm wrong!). Back in the DC area, however, there were several restaurants; some of which served as old "stomping grounds" during my high school years (Springfield Mall, Landmark... what?!?). It's too bad. I won't be able to have a corporate-ish monte cristo at a Bennigan's ever again. It saddens me for two minutes, but then I'm over it.

Still a little sad, though. It's the end of an era. But who knows. I remember when the Houlihan's on Franconia (NoVa) closed years ago. It magically resurrected as the restaurant attached to the Hilton Springfield (just a few blocks from its original location) - still named "Houlihan's." But I never went back. I think that was around the time when I decided that I was over chains. Chains are all the same.

For some reason I'm still a little sad about Bennigan's. Maybe because there were lot's of memories there, or not. I know I'm being super schizo right now, but I do remember going there with the BFFs (ahaha) if one of us were super pissed-off, or if we wanted to be grossly fat, or if we honestly had no other bright ideas. I remember going to one in Jacksonville (FL), and they were pumpin' music inside like it was a club. Right then I knew I could NOT ever go to one of those again. (But I secretly went to the one in Fair Oaks a few years ago when I visited my family back home. But we only went because Todai was closed. Ahahahaha.)

Sadness. Later, Bennigan's. It's been real. If only you could take Ruby Tuesday's and Friday's with you. Oh, and Applebee's and Chili's. (Ha.)

SMALL PLATES IZAKAYA-STYLE

America’s food culture has been known to be unabashedly ostentatious when it comes to portioning. In a culture where “thinking big” means more than just stepping out of the “proverbial” box, it shouldn’t be a surprise that this notion could (and would) extend into every aspect of the average American’s way-of-life. From cars to houses, day trips to huge vacations, small weddings to over-the-top ones… it’s almost become a pre-req to have to think and plan BIG. This is no different when it comes to food consumption.

The powers behind our “super size this” kind of world has promoted a “big plate” culture for decades. Every place from the neighborhood McDonald’s to the always-crowded Grand Lux Café seems to glorify the “big plate” phenomenon. It’s a notion that has consumers teetering between feelings of food-contentment and food-disgust. While a good portion of the American public relishes in the frenzy of paying less for more food, the culture of dining with proportionate servings (at moderate prices) finds itself more alluring to those who enjoy the tastes, flavors, and smells of carefully prepared cuisine (as opposed to the overflowing quantity of mediocre food). But even in the world of fine dining, tastes and flavors have transcended through the era of big plates to today’s popular (and growing) “small plate” culture.

Small plates have been a big part of dining traditions for ages. An easy example would be Chinese dim sum, a wide range of light dishes often served alongside tea. As dim sum came to make a name for itself in popular American food culture, it also opened the doors for similar food customs from other regions of the world: tapas from Spain, meze from the Mediterranean, and – in more recent times – izakaya food from Japan. While tapas and meze have already enjoyed much success in many parts of the country, the izakaya wave has splashed onto the American dining scene so swift that it is whetting more than a few appetites.

For those still in the dark about izakaya, it is – traditionally – a type of Japanese “drinking” establishment, also offering food accompaniments to their drinks. The food is generally more substantial than typical “bar” fare, and the experience at a typical izakaya tends to be relatively inexpensive. The word itself is a compound consisting of “I,” which means “to remain,” and “sakaya,” or “sake shop.” This suggests that izakaya traces its origins from certain sake shops which allowed customers an extended period to remain and drink. Menu items include drinks (beer, cocktails, sake, shochu, and wine), and small dishes including sashimi, tofu, edamame, and karaage (bite-sized fried chicken). Often times, robata-style items such as kushiyaki (grilled meat or vegetable skewers) and yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) are also offered.

“Sharing” is one of the key ideas behind the modern-day izakaya. Much in the same way that Spaniards indulge in tapas for social settings, or how Filipinos enjoy pulutan alongside drinks, the Japanese head to an izakaya after work hours, or for social gatherings on weekends. It is essentially a place to go for drinks, light food, and great company.

The LA-area has enjoyed a plethora of izakaya-style spots popping up all over. Innovative Dining Group (Boa, Sushi Roku, Katana, LuckyFish) opened Robata Bar on trendy Ocean Avenue in Santa Monica, specializing in robatayaki. Heading East from Santa Monica, you will hit Zu Robata along restaurant-filled Wilshire Boulevard; nestled around where the Sawtelle and Brentwood neighborhoods meet. Not too far from there, on busy Santa Monica Boulevard, is Sasaya. Past Beverly Hills, and the La Cienega dining corridor, is Izakaya by Katsu-ya on 3rd Street. And then traveling downtown to Little Tokyo you will find Izayoi. With more to add to what seems to be a growing roster, the izakaya culture of Los Angeles has proven past the old cliché that “less is more.”

Robata Bar 1401 Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica 90401, 310-458-4771
Zu Robata 12217 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, 90025, 310.579.1920
Sasaya 11613 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Los Angeles 90025, 310.477.4404
Izakaya by Katsu-ya 8420 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles 90048, 323.782.9536
Izayoi 132 S. Central Avenue, Los Angeles 90012, 213.613.9554

Photo from Kirala Sushi Bar & Robata Grill's website. Thank you!

ENTER: FIVE GUYS

Back in May, my roommate and I drove down to Carson to scoop up our other roomie - who was out there dropping her car off to be shipped back to the East Coast (she has since went back home to the MD/DC/VA area; sniff). When we were circling around the parking lot of the mall that she was waiting at, we spotted something that made us both gasp; a sheer sigh of shock and elation: Five Guys - Coming Soon! There is was, in all it's simple red n' white glory. As the old mall (by IKEA) strips-off it's facade for a more updated look, it seems that even some of the old tenants are giving way to newer ones. We would've never assumed that Five Guys would've been one of those businesses!

FG first opened in Northern Virginia (just outside of Washington, DC), back in '86. For a long while, the burger place was known to have very few outposts around the immediate area. I can only remember a store in Old Town Alexandria, and another along Route 1 near Woodbridge. As I kid, I never really made my way to one. In fact, it probably wasn't until late high school/early college that I finally got some people together to check things out in nearby Old Town. What we experienced was nothing short of interesting: just a shack-of-a-place, with picnic-ish tables inside, and barrels of peanuts left for you to gnaw on as you wait for your order. (Yes, we were a little taken back by the fact that you could shuck the shells onto the floor as if you were at your grandmother's farm.) I vaguely remember the menu, but I know that there was a list of toppings that you could choose for your burger. And to add to the minimalist menu: fries. Yummy, greasy ol' fries. I remember being handed a brown bag soaking up the grease that was profusely dripping from the burger. I had to rush the bag to my table, grab a shit-load of napkins, and try to figure things out. Before that, though, I headed over to a condiments station and grabbed some ketchup, and brought over a bottle of malt vinegar (for my fries). A little bit of this here, and a little bit of that there, then voila - fun and yum times were born. I remember leaving FG with a mixed-feeling of grossness and contentment. Although the meal was surely yum, it was one I knew I could never have on the regular. It would've been years before my next trip to FG in Old Town, although I even worked around the corner from it right out of college.

It wasn't until a couple of years before I left the DC area that FG started to expand. I remember the old Au Pied du Cochon space in Georgetown (which I loved, btw) had finally closed it's doors. Months later, FG opened in its place. Again - mixed emtions: happy that the local chain decided to expand around the area, yet sad that historic G-town decided to add that to it's once pretty eclectic food choices. Whatever, though. I went in anyway, and had it for the third time in my life. Like old times, I came away with the gross/content feeling. Gotta love 'em! When I visited home for Christmas that first year I moved to L.A., we made a pit-stop at Tysons Corner after being scooped up at Dulles. I got to check out the newly developed wing of the mall, and in the new food court was --- FG. I smirked as I had come to realize that the local burger chain was finally coming into its own. (I didn't it eat, though. AHAHA.)

Fast-forward to now. So FG has made its entrance into the SoCal market via Carson. Kind of a weird place to make its start, but at the same time - it's a perfect, "home town" environment for it to be introduced; just like from where it came. Plans to open another store in Cerritos are in the works, and the owner of the Marie Callender's chain has the rights to open a slew of shops all over SoCal in the coming years.

How has it measured up?! Well, so far so good. It's easily being compared to In 'N Out (logically), and die-hard SoCalians are sticking to their guns that INO is the superior choice. East Coast transplants, who are familiar with the Guys' burger and fries, beg to differ. But even some of the locals see the allure of FG. Nancy Luna, from the OC Register's food blog, finds it more comparable to The Counter (Santa Monica/Irvine); not so much in terms of upscale service and style (of the restaurant itself), but more so because of the choices of burger toppings. INO, as you know, serves it up as simple as possible. Luna did, however, have to give it up to FG for their superior ---drum-roll please-- FRIES! FG's Idaho potato fries are cooked in peanut oil, and are a whole lot tastier, especially when dipped in malt vinegar.

That being said, I have to admit -- and I'm ready to take the back-lash here, folks -- that I have never seen the allure of INO. It's not that I don't think it's good, because I enjoy myself an INO burger. But I do not get how people see it as God's gift to burger-dom. Even one of my roommates, who is also from "home," is a staunch INO follower. When she flies in from visiting the DC area, she would (but doesn't always!) make a stop at the INO outside LAX if she could (and if the line was ever short enough). But for me, I'd rather drive thru Carl's Jr. I know, call me a hater... call me a sadist... call me whatever it is that you want to call me. But I mean no disrespect! I don't hate INO, but at the same time I don't feel like I'm missing out on anything special by skipping out on it. In the same token, I wouldn't say that I'm in love with FG either, but I think it definitely is a worthy opponent. And if I had to choose one, I'd choose FG on any given day -- not only because it's a home-grown choice, but it's just an all-around tastier burger AND fries. And I'm proud that it is being welcomed to SoCal with open arms (and mouths).

The photos are from Flickr, courtesy of jslander. Thank you!

THERE'S NOTHIN' LIKE A GOOD OL' FRITE...!

I am a firm believer that – in another life – I was one of the McDonald’s “Fry Guys.” You remember those things, right? They were the little pom-pom-lookin’ creatures that were always eating fries while the Hamburglar would steal hamburgers. No doubt that they were scary-ass, but absolutely harmless. This aside, I cannot remember when I became such a fry fanatic. As a kid, I remember eating fries from fast-food places, but never really loving them. My mom and dad used to get fries from McDonald’s, and dip them in the soft-served ice cream… YUMMM!!! That’s a taste that, till this day, reminds me of childhood.

When college rolled around, fries became an even more prevalent part of my daily diet (and it shoved me way past the “freshman 15”). At the dining hall, I would always grab a side of fries. At the student union, the gang and I would always pick-up fries from Roy Rogers (which is no longer there; how sad) and we’d mix together ketchup, mayo and pepper as our dip du jour. It was the number one meal eaten at the FCA office (Roy’s fries, Days of Our Lives, and skipping class – daily ritual).

These days, I see fries as both a “pleasure” and “pain…” It’s a pain in my ass because when I eat too much, that shit accumulates right around my ass (and other places). But they are always a pleasure to eat; a never-failing party in my mouth. Some days I think I only love them for the crunch factor, but other days I am certain that I just love them for what they are: sheer deliciousness.

While I have some favorites, I tend to not be discriminatory when it comes to picking and choosing my fries. I usually welcome fries of all types with open arms (and an open mouth). Last year, Citysearch put out their “Best French Fries 2007” list for Los Angeles, which consisted of the following:

#10: Table 8 (Los Angeles/Melrose)
#9: Father’s Office (Editorial Winner; Santa Monica/Montana)
#8: Cassell’s (Los Angeles/Downtown)
#7: In-N-Out Burger
#6: Carney’s Restaurant (West Hollywood/Sunset)
#5: Islands
#4: Backstage Bar & Grill (Culver City)
#3: Taste on Melrose (Los Angeles/Melrose)
#2: The Oinkster (Eagle Rock)
#1: Café Flore (Audience Winner; Beverly Hills)

Of the choices from the list above, I have only had fries at four of the spots. I’m not too sure I’d spend much to order fries at Table 8 or Taste on Melrose, and I have to question why In-N-Out is even on this list (burgers are fine, but their fries are nothing special at all). I am a staunch supporter of the fries (regular & sweet potato) from Father’s Office, and Islands and Carney’s both deserve honorable mentions.

If it were up to me, however, I would knock-off at least half of the spots listed, and my list would probably include these instead:

Beechwood (Venice)
The Counter (Santa Monica)
Cabo Cantina (Brentwood)
West @ The Hotel Angeleno (Los Angeles)
Life on Wilshire (Los Angeles)
Canter’s (Los Angeles)

For your basic, run-of-the-mill deli-style fries, Canter’s would be a hands-down choice. I prefer theirs over those served up at other local delis. Beechwood (in Venice) offers three different types: shoe string, ¼ inch, and sweet potato. Try one, or all three, with three house-made dipping sauces. Not too far away in Santa Monica is The Counter, where fries are available with cheese, cheese & chili, or as sweet potato. Added bonus, you can order fries with onion strings as well. Yum. Cabo Cantina used to have smothered cheese fries, which were disgusting. But I went the other night, and the fries had a cheesy sauce on the side this time around. It also seemed like the fries were lightly dusted with some kind of yum seasoning – I couldn’t pin-point what it was exactly. But after that experience, it was easily added to my list. At West (The Hotel Angeleno), fries are cooked in special truffle oil –easily making these one of the more amazing choices in the area. Finally, for me at least, Life on Wilshire offers regular fries AND “curry” fries served with Indian ketchup. It’s surely one of the more interesting ways to serve good ol’ frites. To this list you can add Father’s Office, Islands, Carney’s, and maybe Del Taco’s crinkle fries instead of the el bore-o In-N-Out fries (only because I’m a sucker for crinkle fries), and you’d have my comprehensive list of favorite fries in Los Angeles.

Notable fries from other cities: Belgian frites at Frjtz are easily the best in San Francisco; Hot Doug’s fries are one of Chicagoland’s finest; Belgian frites at Brasserie Beck in DC are probably my favorite in an upscale setting, while Ledo’s Pizza (the original in College Park, MD) serves up the best casual waffle fries: dusted with Old Bay seasoning and dipped in ranch; In NYC, I personally hold a soft-spot for the frites at Les Halles; and Boston Beer Works serves up a decent frite in Beantown.

Notable fries from national restaurant chains: The garlic fries at Gordon Biersch easily tops this list; the Houston’s chain offers tasty, skinny fries; and Red Robin gets an honorable mention for their bottomless steak fries.

If I could eat fries every day ---I would. But my body would hate me for it. So in the meantime, I’ll have to leave it all to my imagination. (Sigh.)

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The awesome photos on this post are not my own, but are from members of Flickr (McDonald's fries - from Sutanto; Father's Office fries - from he cooks she eats; The Counter fries - from evilmidori; Gordon Biersch fries - from chrisglass... thank you!).

AU COURANT: CLOSINGS/OPENINGS

It's a sad, sad time in Washington, DC's "foodie land." Among the restaurants that have recently closed its doors in Our Nation' s Capital, one of my personal favorites - Butterfield 9 - has joined the list. After eight years of service, the restaurant is now only a memory. The restaurant has been a constant fixture in Washingtonian Magazine's "top" lists, and even made its 100 Best Restaurants list this past January.

The last time I had dinner at Butterfield 9 was sometime in 2003, if I remember correctly. I had planned an engagement dinner for friends there, and we had such a great time. From the restaurant's ambiance, to the service, and - most especially - the food, it truly was a classic place for a special occasion. And not too long ago, my brother and his wife had dinner there during one of DC's many "Restaurant Week" celebrations, and they both loved it.

It's sad to know that the next time I fly into DC, Butterfield 9 will not be there. Hopefully Chef Michael Harr will have a project waiting in the wings. His talent surely deserves to be displayed - if not in DC, then elsewhere.
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Here in Los Angeles, there are a number of things going on as well. LA, as you know, is not exempt from the ugly world of restaurant turn-overs. In fact, I feel like LA might be the "king" of such. In Santa Monica, two of my favorites have gone under. Akwa (formerly on 5th Street) has closed its doors. It wasn't exactly the best of its kind in that area, but their weeknight happy hours were surely commendable. In its place: Wokcano. I'm not a super-huge fan of Wokcano, but maybe the huge space that Akwa enjoyed will work in its favor.

Another spot that is rumored to have bitten the bullet is Yose (on Main Street). There really isn't much to be said about sushi being served in a Korean-owned restaurant (sorry!), but this was actually one of the "good guys." Again, the place seemed to be a snooze-fest if it weren't for their outstanding happy hour: everything was pretty much 50%-off the menu. And so it goes - another happy hour spot bites the dust.

Now open in Century City: RockSugar. This is the "Asian" bistro brought to us by the concept-creators of The Cheesecake Factory; in other words it is a "PF Chang's done by The Cheesecake people." I haven't gone, and I'm not sure I'll ever go. Per a friend that has gone recently, it really isn't anything to write home about. It's the effin' Cheesecake Factory/Grand Luxe Cafe - but Asian. Bore-o.

JOLLY FOR JOLLIBEE (...right)

I got a very random text (from one of my boyz at work) last night, and it rattled me a little at first. But when I finally “got it” I was literally on the floor, ready to laugh out my liver. This is exactly how the text went:

“That’s so cool that you are at Jollibee right now. What’s that? You’re not? Oh that’s right, I’m at Jollibee. Not you. Thanks for asking tho”

At first I was like, “WHAT THE EFF?!” And then when I realized what was going on, I totally laughed, but had to ask myself “What the hell is TJ doing at Jollibee?!” TJ, you see, is one of my boyz from the office. And the extra-cool thing is that he is from the hood! He is a home-grown white boy from PG County. Yes, I said it – “PG COUNTY.” Yes, we be lunchin’… we be talkin’ about go-go… we be reminiscin’ about our stories from the Beltway… and we both went to the “OG” science and tech high schools from around the way (Roosevelt and Oxon Hill). So on many levels, this guy is a straight-up homey. And he went to Jollibee last night. WTF?!

Mel, TJ’s girlfriend, lives close to the Jollibee that’s on Beverly –somewhere near K-Town and the sprinkling of Philippine-owned businesses in that part of Los Angeles. In their quest for food last night, they decided to drive around – and when they saw Jollibee, a light bulb flickered in Mel’s head. I, along with the dusting of other Filipinos in the office, have had discussions with TJ (and the rest of the gang) about J-bee, and from the sounds of it – the lil’ spot has piqued their curiosities every once in a while (like when they’d drive by). But last night was the night, and TJ and Mel took the plunge into the rabbit-hole leading to Philippine fast-food land. Emm.

So this morning, TJ brings over a menu (which he ganked), and tells me about his little adventure. He and Mel came super close to ordering the Palabok Fiesta (which, for you non-knowers, is a Philippine noodle dish of cornstarch bihon noodles, and a garlic-flavored sauce topped with pork strips, crunchy pork cracklings, bay shrimps, scallions, and hard boiled egg slices; total YUM for native eaters, but a bit on the scarier side for others). Instead they opted for safer choices: TJ went with the Yumburger w/TLC (uh, that’s Tomato, Lettuce, and Cheese – LOL) meal, and Mel took a more daring approach and got the Amazing Aloha (burger with bacon, lettuce, cheese and a juicy pineapple) meal. TJ wasn’t feelin’ the Yumburger, but he said that the fries AND Mel’s Amazing Aloha burger were actually yu-hummm. So their foray into Pinoy Fast Food-ology was not a complete waste. (HA.)

For those who don’t know, Jollibee started out as an ice cream parlor back in the Philippines (circa 1975-ish), but incorporated an array of food items in/around 1978. It has easily become the country’s home-grown rival to McDonald’s, and has since made a name for itself in and out of the islands. Like other Philippine fast food chains, it specializes in “quickly-made” food (burgers, fries, etc.), and also offers native meals as well: palabok, Philippine spaghetti (sweeter than Italian spaghetti, and with hot dog slices), fried chicken, and breakfast meals complete with hot dogs, bacon, tapa or tocino, garlic rice and eggs. For dessert, simple offerings such as pandan and/or ube flavored shakes (with tapioca pearls/boba), peach mango pies, and even halo-halo are available.

Lucky for us on the West, Jollibees dot the coast and can be found in/around major metropolitan areas such as Los Angeles, San Diego, and the Bay Area. So when the hankering for the tastes of the Motha'land comes, the stuff is within reach. And, coming soon, a branch is slated to open in Queens, NY later this year. The world-over, however, there are over 600 “langhap-sarap” destinations. (HAHAHA! Langhap-sarap. Oh, man.)

You’re totally enlightened, I know it.

(CUSTOM) BUILD THEM, AND THEY WILL COME

If there is anything food-related that Santa Monica can be proud of, it would be the custom-built burger diner called The Counter. Originally opened in 2003-2004, this SaMo burger palace is tucked away from the hustle and bustle of Main Street and/or The Third Street Promenade. Instead, it is nestled in a tiny neighborhood retail complex along Ocean Park Boulevard. It's the perfect place to go when you're feeling a burger that other places just can't quite seem to perfect.

When you enter you are given a "menu" clipboard which is accompanied by pencils and made-to-order forms. You basically choose your meat (beef, turkey, veggie), choice of bun (including English muffin; if you want the lo-carb choice then go with a bun-less burger "bowl"), and then choice of cheese, toppings, and sauce(s). What comes to your table is a platter full of happiness and joy, and it's made exactly how you want. There are no burger nazis here (unlike at Father's Office), and you will definitely get more than you bargained for (unlike if you were to drive-through Carls Jr. or Jack in the Box).

And to make matters even more fun, you can order yum milk shakes, fountain sodas, beer and even wine. In an area where burgers are legendary (a la Father's Office, The Apple Pan, 25 Degrees), The Counter easily places itself among the best of the best.

Its laid-back style adds to the comfortable experience: the place looks like an old garage that has been converted into restaurant space. Hip and cool "skater"-esque art prints are placed on the walls, and you are seated at simple formica tables. It's almost like The Peach Pit minus the kitschy feel of a Johnny Rockets. The original owner sold the spot in 2006, and the new owner maintained the over-all appearance and idea of the make-your-own burger joint.

I went again today, but decided that this time around I would order my burger in a bowl. It was the least I could do to go "lo carb" with my meal. I got a regular 1/3 lb turkey burger over a bed of mixed greens. Gruyere cheese, roasted peppers and chilies, grilled onions, and freshly cut tomatos added some texture, color and flavor. And to top it off, I chose a peppercorn steak sauce to drench all over my burger bowl --making everything blissful. To add to the meal we ordered a side of chili/cheese fries, and a mix of sweet potato fries and fried onion strings; a perfect accompaniment to the different burger concoctions that dotted the table.

Per the new owner, more outposts have already popped up in/around Southern California (with nearby Marina Del Rey to join the brood), in Phoenix, and even across the country in Georgia. For my homies back in DC, The Counter comes to Reston this Fall, with plans to open in Arlington, VA and Washington, DC as well. Soon 312,120 possible burger combinations will be within your grasp. Wait for it...!

(Photos courtesy of http://www.thecounterburger.com/)